The Rolex Perpetual 1908 the Brand’s Evolving Future
Rolex has long been known for its steady, methodical approach to watchmaking, where new releases typically adhered to a familiar script. Whether it was a subtle change to the bezel’s hue, a slight shift in font size on the dial, or a minor tweak in case proportions, Rolex’s novelties were often predictable in their design evolution – predictable, but always exciting. The annual unveiling at Watches Market would see fans and collectors eagerly crowding around the replica Rolex booth, eager to see what the brand had in store. The excitement often stemmed from how these small changes still managed to generate massive buzz, cementing Rolex’s status as a leader in horology.
However, the landscape of Rolex’s releases is clearly shifting, with a noticeable change in approach over the past few years. The brand is repositioning itself within the watch industry, reaching out to a wider audience, and extending both the younger and older ends of its customer base. At the same time, it is elevating its entire catalog, pushing it further into the luxury sphere. The result? Surprising, almost unexpected releases that have been reshaping the Rolex narrative – none more significant than the 2024 introduction of the Rolex Perpetual 1908, a watch that signals a broader shift in the brand’s design philosophy.
A Fresh Perspective on Rolex’s Design Language
2024 has solidified this transformation, especially with the unveiling of two entirely new models: the Land-Dweller and the Perpetual 1908. The latter, particularly, represents a bold departure from the norm. With its elegant design and innovative construction, it introduces a striking new bracelet called the Settimo – a design that omits the end links, a feature unseen in Rolex’s catalog for decades.
Historically, the Rolex collection adhered to a conservative design philosophy, with two primary case types: the fluid, classical design for the Classic lineup, and the more robust, functional case for the Professional series. Similarly, the brand offered just three primary bracelet designs: the Oyster, Jubilee, and President. But in just one year, Rolex has introduced two completely new bracelet designs and two entirely new case styles – an integrated case for the Land-Dweller and a sleek, dressy case for the Perpetual 1908.
This marks a departure from the traditional Rolex approach, suggesting that the brand is loosening its grip on its iconic formula. New cases and bracelets, unlike dial variations, are significant additions to the lineup – they’re not just fleeting trends but permanent features that represent a bold expansion of Rolex’s design horizons.
The 1908 Settimo Bracelet: A New Kind of Elegance
Why has Rolex opted to deviate from its long-standing traditions with the 1908? The answer lies in a growing realization: despite Rolex’s dominance in sales and market share – its position as the largest Swiss watch brand is unrivaled – the brand has, until now, neglected the luxury dress watch segment in the traditional sense. While Rolex’s Classic models are practical and refined, they lack the true “dress watch” pedigree of higher-end brands like Breguet or Blancpain. Rolex has always been known for its sporty, robust models, and while these have garnered immense popularity, there has always been a gap in its catalog for a true luxury cheap watch.
Enter the Perpetual 1908, which replaces the discontinued Cellini line and fulfills that role by offering a design that is at once timeless and distinctly modern. While the 1908 shares some elements with its predecessor, it is undeniably more refined. The case is thinner, the dial adopts a more retro aesthetic with a small seconds subdial, and the overall proportions feel elegant without sacrificing Rolex’s renowned sturdiness.
Yet, the 1908 arrived without a bracelet. Traditionally, Rolex has avoided leather straps on many of its models, so the Perpetual 1908 was initially presented on a leather band – a bold decision that seemed out of place for a brand synonymous with durable, high-quality bracelets. It quickly became clear, however, that a bracelet was a necessity to complete the watch’s transformation into a fully realized luxury piece.
The answer to this dilemma was the introduction of the Settimo bracelet – a new, seven-link design that immediately set it apart from the more familiar five-link Jubilee. The bracelet is thinner, more supple, and more refined, perfectly complementing the sleek 9.5mm case. But what really sets the Settimo apart is the removal of end links, a rare decision not just for fake Rolex, but for modern watchmaking as a whole. The bracelet features a straight-end design that enhances its minimalist elegance, and the concealed clasp adds a touch of refinement, only revealed when the crown symbol gently meets the bracelet’s clasp.
The 1908’s Unique Presence
What makes the 1908 so striking is the way it balances modernity and vintage inspiration. The 39mm case is larger than the typical dress watch of the mid-20th century, but the Settimo bracelet and its consistent width lend the watch a powerful presence on the wrist. Unlike the usual Rolex taper that tapers sharply at the clasp, the Settimo’s bracelet maintains its width from end to end – a feature reminiscent of vintage “beads-of-rice” bracelets but scaled up to create a striking visual impact.
In addition to the bracelet, the 1908 features a charming two-step bezel – comprising a thin domed ring and a fluted second ring – that recalls Rolex’s vintage styling while still feeling wholly modern. The overall proportions feel substantial, with the gold bracelet catching the light beautifully and adding a layer of masculine strength to the otherwise refined design.
Yet, the 1908 is not without room for improvement. The dial, while lovely, reveals minor inconsistencies – particularly with the minute hand, which feels slightly out of proportion near the tip. These quirks are easily overlooked, but they speak to the fact that Rolex is still experimenting with new design elements, refining them as it ventures into the world of luxury dress watches.
A New Movement for a New Era
The 1908 also heralds a new movement for Rolex: the calibre 7140. This self-winding movement, introduced in 2023, features an open caseback – a rarity for Rolex – allowing a glimpse into its intricate mechanics. The movement’s construction is flat, with visible components like the barrel ratchet wheel and winding mechanism, while the Geneva striping and gold chatons elevate its aesthetic appeal. The inclusion of a Syloxi silicon hairspring further emphasizes Rolex’s commitment to innovation, as silicon is typically reserved for thinness-focused designs.
The calibre 7140 is also notable for its thinness, allowing the 1908 to become the thinnest Rolex in the current catalog. Despite this, the movement is still largely industrial in its finishing, and many enthusiasts wonder how a hand-finished version would compare. Rolex has recently delved into decorative arts, such as cloisonné enamel and guilloché, and it will be interesting to see how the brand evolves in this area.
The Future of Rolex: Bold Steps Ahead
Rolex has long been known for its measured pace and long-term thinking, and the 1908 represents a significant shift in the brand’s approach. In the past decade, the watch world has experienced a resurgence of collector interest, and Rolex has adapted by introducing unexpected models that push the boundaries of its established design philosophy. The 1908 exemplifies this transformation, offering a modern take on the replica watch genre while retaining the core values of robustness and reliability that have made Rolex a household name.
As the 1908 collection continues to evolve, it will be fascinating to see where Rolex takes this new direction. The Settimo bracelet and open-caseback movement suggest that the brand is ready to break free from tradition, exploring new horizons while staying true to its identity. The 1908 may just be the beginning of a new chapter in Rolex’s storied history – a chapter that promises to be as bold and enduring as the brand itself.